PrintOf all the ways style mavens can express themselves—from fashion to hairstyles—a signature scent is guaranteed to be unique. Based on pure science, humans naturally release one-of-a-kind odors, a result of varying pH levels and dietary practices. This is precisely why commercial perfumes that are sold by the millions can still smell different depending on the wearer. But while chemistry ultimately decides what people smell like, it’s up to individuals to express their olfactory style by choosing a perfume—a process that’s more complex than one might expect.
Robin, the friendly saleslady at the Chanel beauty counter at Macy’s, explains that fragrances generally fall into three categories: “Fruity, citrus, and spicy.” But these are just the base notes, or the scents that linger the longest on the skin. From there, it becomes more complicated: middle and top notes are added to the mix in infinite combinations and variations. The citrus, for example, could be orange or grapefruit or both, and mixed with something spicy, which could be mellow or intense.
Robin represents one of the most iconic perfumes. Chanel claims a bottle of Chanel No. 5 is sold every 55 seconds worldwide. It comprises a one-of-a-kind combination of over 80 flowers, which also accounts for the scent’s yearly increase in price—since many of those flowers are rare.
Robin also clarifies that there is a difference between the two Coco Mademoiselle bottles on her counter. “One is an eau de toilette and the other is an eau de parfum,” she explains. The water-based eau de toillete is subtler and should be sprayed all over—clothes included—while the oil-based eau de parfum should be worn directly on the skin, never on fabric. Eaus de parfum require less frequent application, which also accounts for why they tend to be more expensive. According to Robin, “One or two spritzes will last all day.”
Though many might choose Chanel No. 5, Robin insists that one’s perfume “is a personal choice.” Perhaps this is the inspiration behind Dolce & Gabbana’s latest fragrance line. The “Anthology” is a collection of six gender-neutral perfumes that conjure identity through scent. Based on Tarot cards, each scent has an associated number and name that represent a certain character. Take number 1, “Le Bateleur” or the bachelor. The scent’s strong wood undertone and fresh, subtly spicy overtone bring to mind the “player”: someone who is intense, cool, and always gets what she wants. It’s unusual that the “Anthology” is gender-neutral, but it makes sense: each fragrance is personality-based rather than masculine or feminine, so any wearer can carry the scent in his or her own individual way.
George, the Bulgari representative at Macy’s and self-proclaimed perfume-shopping connoisseur, claims the first step to discovering your signature scent is approaching a salesperson who will offer a start-off test perfume. From there, the salesperson will ask the shopper questions based on the initial scent to determine what they like. Once a scent is found, it’s necessary to spray it directly on the skin and see how it matures.
In general, George sells lighter floral or fruity scents to younger clients who look for something that fits a more public lifestyle. For evening, though, he suggests muskier scents with a hint of spice, which he calls “sexy and feminine.” When it comes to men’s tastes, George believes that “men like sweet smells for women.” He suggest florals blended with citrus, but emphasizes that young women should never wear scents that are too harsh. Heavy scents are a better fit for the over 50 clientele, who have fewer occasions to wear perfume and need to make a statement when they do.
The way George speaks of his customers suggests activity at the perfume counters isn’t lacking, though: “People like free stuff, so package deals are what’s selling.” He observes that penny-pinching consumers have become “more picky,” but that doesn’t seem to be affecting the fragrance business too much. Instead, it seems to encourage wiser, more thoughtful perfume purchases. And since it has more longevity than the typical fashion trend, fragrance can become part of the wearer’s identity more than any other accessory ever could.