PrintWe’ve been hearing it for years: eco-friendly fashion is not just for crunchy granola types, nor does it mean burlap sacks in neutral colors. Since 2005, the green movement has been gaining followers in the fashion industry—but it didn’t really catch on until late last year. Now eco-fashion is the hottest thing since global warming, and everyone from Banana Republic to Ermenegildo Zegna is jumping on the green bandwagon.
The fashion industry is becoming more eco-friendly in many ways. Designers, for example, are now choosing to use sustainable materials. Loomstate, founded by Rogan designer Rogan Gregory, is dedicated to producing casual wear that is completely constructed of 100 percent certified organic materials. For this Loomstate patronizes only organic farms and reduces dye in their clothing, using natural coloring whenever possible.
Fashion houses are also changing the way clothes are produced, like saving energy by using more hand-sewing than factory machines. EDUN, “nude” read backwards, is a clothing line founded by Ali Hewson and Bono that focuses on building sustainable jobs in developing countries like Tunisia, Peru, and India. In this way, EDUN improves the quality of life in poverty-stricken nations while exclusively using 100 percent organic cotton farmed locally near the factory. No matter how they go about it, designers are getting serious about reducing their carbon stiletto-print.
Boutique owners are also actively supporting the shift towards eco-fashion. Major online retailer Shopbop even has an “Earth Friendly” category on its web site, which showcases green brands like Beau Soleil and Organic, making it easy for consumers to choose green styles. Bird, which has three locations in New York City, makes a point of carrying eco-friendly brands like Eberjey and Bodkin alongside hip, upscale brands like 3.1 Phillip Lim and See by Chloe. In addition, Bird’s third boutique in Williamsburg, Brooklyn is LEED Certified, meaning that the boutique’s renovated design follows strict sustainability rules set by the U.S. Green Building Council.
Despite efforts by designers and boutique owners, it is really up to the consumers to decide if green is the new black. To make environmentally friendly fashion more affordable and accessible, Target has partnered with Loomstate this spring—expect to see the collection in stores April 19, three days before Earth Day. But how exactly is Loomstate, whose t-shirts sell for upwards of $100, lowering costs to meet Target’s price range while maintaining organic standards? Because no official announcements on this subject have yet been released, it can only be assumed that Loomstate is simply using lower-quality organic cotton and less-than-perfect craftsmanship to produce the line. This viable solution contradicts a major pillar of eco-friendliness: recycling. If the clothing is of a lower quality, it will not last long regardless of whether or not it’s organic.
H&M has seemingly solved the quality problem by using recycled materials, including polyester recycled from PET bottles and cotton recycled from fabric scraps to produce its wallet-friendly organic cotton collection. The idea is that the apparel itself is recyclable, though H&M has yet to roll out a “recycle your clothing here” campaign.
Though the theory behind H&M’s organic line is admirable, the contradiction between sustainable, eco-friendly fashions and the trendy “throw-away” clothing that the store thrives on remains a problem. By promoting the idea that there’s nothing wrong with buying a trendy outfit that will no longer be stylish next season, H&M contributes to a larger mentality that condones disposable fashion.
Ultimately, affordability always seems to triumph over sustainability—which is why green items of lower cost are crucial to the long-term success of eco-friendly fashion. In short, it’s good that fashion is making an effort to go green. But until consumers pony up extra cash to buy the organics or designers lower prices, eco-friendly fashions will continue to take second place to their synthetic cousins.