In With the Old

ARTS / style

In With the Old

tartan endures centuries, still appearing on runways

By Helen Werbe

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Whether it originated in the Early Iron Age, when similar textiles were produced, or in the 15th century, when King James III of Scotland first wore such patterns, tartan (a.k.a. plaid) has managed to survive style’s ups and downs for centuries.

Perhaps it’s tartan’s deep history that has led to its worldwide popularity and endurance.

In Scottish and Irish cultural history, tartan is associated both with clans and with certain geographic regions. While all tartans have the same general pattern of horizontal and vertical bands of colors, each pattern’s colors are unique, depending on the dyes that were available in the region from which they emerged. Each distinctive tartan also usually carries the surname of the family that dominated that region. The “Buchan,” a dark green, red, and black tartan, is named after the earls of Buchan, who came from the northeasterly district of Aberdeenshire, Scotland. Historically, family members wore their tartan with pride, the same way athletes today wear their school’s colors on athletic uniforms. Nowadays, tartan is worn more casually—although there are still traditionalists who wear their family tartan in the form of a kilt on major holidays, such as celebrated Scottish poet Robert Burns’ birthday (Jan. 25).

But tartan’s not just for the Scots and Irish: It appears everywhere from school uniforms to haute couture. It’s probably tartan’s versatility that has led to its appearance on so many runways. As a print, it can come in endless combinations of colors and sizes. This unique flexibility means tartan can appear in collections year-round. As a trend, it has been growing since style icon Kurt Cobain made grunge a popular look in the ’90s. Taking tartan from the street into fashion houses, designers have upgraded the trend into a classic yet cool look.

Tartan was especially huge at the fall/winter ’08-’09 fashion shows, and its presence was no smaller at the spring/summer ’09 shows. The pattern has been slightly updated: the darker tartans were trendy for the winter, while lighter variations were especially popular at the s/s ’09 shows. In Paris, Isabel Marant featured a lightweight summer pant in a plaid pattern similar to “Berwick-Upon-Tweed,” a light blue background with bands of pale red and navy. At New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs used a pattern resembling “Glasgow” in his tanks, skirts, and dresses for spring and summer. The designer himself wore a red tartan kilt after presenting his Marc by Marc Jacobs collection. At the Milan shows, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni took a softer approach to the tartan trend by using a pattern that looks more like paintbrush strokes. The pastellike colors used by Castiglioni are more sophisticated and understated. These fresh takes on tartan will certainly influence many everyday-wear brands.

Contemporary versions of tartan are already appearing all over trendy chains like Urban Outfitters. With everything plaid, from dresses and bags for women to endless tartan shirts—36 of 62 on sale on urbanoutfitters.com alone— for men, incorporating the historic fabric in everyday wear is easier than ever. If you prefer more classic cuts but would like to wear plaid, J. Crew also offers many tartan designs this season. Of course, Burberry’s iconic tan checks will be the best option for those looking for an investment piece. Next time you show off your latest tartan, think of what clansmen you might be representing. Perhaps if someone asks what you are wearing, you can answer back “MacKirdy” or “Gordonstoun.”

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29 January 2009
vol. 6, issue 1

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